SALT SPRING ISLAND: day 8

Woke up on the dustier side of dusty. The van is absolute chaos too. Isaac made us eggs and toast for breakfast, then we hopped on the bikes to check out some of the trails up here. I still completely suck at mountain biking. I make it so much harder for myself by going slow, but it is SO SCARY. But also, I can see the appeal. Probably would’ve been good for me to to do it again, but we need to leave enough time to go to the brewery before we get the ferry back. So obviously, we will need to prioritise that. 

Took extra time to secure everything in place in the van and said a little prayer we would make it back down the insane road with the tiny amount of fuel we have left. Sadly, we only made it 5 minutes before the van cut out. The hill was so steep the fuel couldn’t reach the fuel pump (apparently). Scratched our heads for a while about what to do. It’s a long walk/bike ride down this hill, let alone to the gas station, then practically impossible to bike back up with a jerry can full of fuel.

After 10 mins of head scratching, a local couple drove past and agreed to take Isaac to the gas station, then he could figure his own way back. They ended up driving him all the way back up the mental road; he was the first person they’d had in their car since COVID too. Canadians are so bloody nice.

A jerry can of fuel later, we tried again. The nice Canadians told us about a nice lake on the way down, would definitely be nice to have a dip. Not the easy 15 min walk we were promised, but rather a swampy bushwhack the whole way there. Again, not ideal in flip flops. The lake was beautiful and the dip was lovely, but climbed back into the van covered in scratches and stingy nettle welts, with stinky swamp mud up to our knees. Counterproductive is the word that springs to mind.

After a somewhat stressful morning, we treated ourselves to a proper lunch (sadly not enough time for the brewery now), decided we’d seen enough of Salt Spring, then caught the ferry back to the mainland. Saw a pod of orcas on the way back!!! Canadian sea-life viewing dream complete.

Treated ourselves again, to a proper campsite (real showers) in Chemainus, not the most thrilling of towns. Wandered down the river, had the longest shower in the world, did a load of laundry. Pesto pasta for dinner, then b e d.

SALT SPRING ISLAND: day 7

Slept like an absolute log. It’s a BEAUT day and the shower bag has heated up nicely on the van’s roof. I had, what could have been, the best shower of my whole life. I like being naked in sunny nature. Maybe I’ll become a nudist. (PSA: The family and kids had left already).

Got the big rug out, read my book, lay in the hammock, macramed a few rows for the net. Isaac did some van admin. He put the goat pic back up that originally came with the van, stapled the fairy lights in (he made the staples by pulling out small nails from a box and then bent each one into shape…). He also made me a necklace from a cool rock he found at Jordan River. He has the patience of a saint. I’ve been a mess, mood swings galore over the last few days. I’m surprised I haven't been dumped, let alone get necklaces made with love and care. 

Followed a little trail through the woods and it led us to the sea front. Hung out there for a while soaking up the views. Had a late lunch, chilled out some more, then packed up and headed to a spot Clover told us about to watch the sunset. 

After all of yesterday’s driving, we really need to get more fuel. Annoyingly the only gas station on the Island (or so we thought with not a soul in sight to ask and no phone signal to check) was closed (5.30pm on a Sunday). So we decided to risk it and just go. The sign at the bottom of the road said 4x4 recommended, we decided to risk that too (unusually risky behaviour for me).

The road was FUCKED. I can not believe we made it to the top. People who drove up in their SUV’s and saw us parked, also couldn’t believe we’d made it to the top. With the roof box making us so top heavy, we would have rolled for sure if I’d been driving.  

So worth it though, the view was insane and the sunset was even better. We sat on a rock and drank wine until the last of the sun had slipped behind the horizon. Went back to the van & played bananagrams. Drank more wine, watched Modern Family, then went to sleep, pretty hammered. 

SALT SPRING ISLAND: day 6 pt. 2

Have heard excellent things about Salt Spring, so excited to be going. We got the front spot on the ferry, meaning 10/10 views without putting a toe outside. 1 minute off the ferry and it’s already lush to be out of the city and surrounded by trees again. Really wanted to see the Saturday Markets in the main town Ganges, but COVID had other plans and they were cancelled. So made a sandwich and wandered around instead.

So far I like this tiny island a lot. So many cute, independent shops with local art work and craft things. Feels a bit like a mix of Granville Island and Tofino. Also found somewhere to fill up the shower bag, we gon’ be cleeeeeaaaaaan!

Spent most of the afternoon exploring the Island in the van and looking for somewhere to camp. The north end was beaut, but all residential. Ideally, it would be nice to find somewhere that isn’t someone’s drive.

The roads are crazy twisty, hilly and uneven. On one exceptionally steep and bumpy corner, the kitchen cupboard door was flung open and the entire contents spewed out across the van. Mostly things were recoverable, but alas, the sesame seed oil spilled everywhere. We (probably just Isaac) need to figure out new latches. For now, duct tape will do. 

Still haven’t found a good spot and it’s on the way to being v dark. This is tiring, stressful and we have used SO much fuel. Maybe we are being too picky, but no spots seemed very hospitable, especially in the darkness.

Drove up/down a dirt road that was definitely more suited to a 4wd and not a ’94 Chevy van. FINALLY found a grassy opening. We are very much in the middle of the woods but a family was already camping there, they seemed friendly enough. 

Picked a flat bit and settled in for the night. Chatted to the family using my best babysitting chat, made the kids some marshmallow sticks to toast. The kids were smart but kinda shitty. They very loudly asked their dad about the time he’d shot a bear, just to watch him squirm. Conversation awkwardly dwindled after that and I awkwardly excused myself for dinner.

Made egg fried rice and veggies again, Isaac made a salad. It was yum. I am tired, grumpy and have a brutal headache that isn’t going. Fingers crossed we sleep well.

Didn’t take anymore pics so here’s some old ones from summer 2019 instead. Our very first camp in the van at Lillooet Lake last summer and the day G-Low and I very bought Flora together.

VANCOUVER ISLAND: day 6

Woke up tired and grumpy. It was so so so windy all night, whenever I was about to drift off, a huge gust would blow and shake the core of my soul. The van was, again, on a big ol’ angle and I kept getting squashed into the cupboards. It’s definitely taking some time to get used to this small space with 2 medium sized people in it. I've hit my head on every single bit you could possibly hit your head on, at least twice.

Didn’t even pack the bed away before we set off, needed to find a bathroom and WiFi ASAP. Obviously, a much harder task than anticipated. New social distancing rules mean that any the tiny cafes is take out only, forcing us to drive into the city centre to find somewhere to sit/pee.

I face timed my family from a particularly grimy Tim Hortons. They said the beaches have re-opened in the UK. They looked busier than Benidorm at the peak of summer. Scary.

We also reminisced about having the best time with them in Victoria. It’s a shame the last 24 hours have been such a shit show. It is such a lovely city, just not the place to be living out of your van.

We decided to head to get the ferry to Salt Spring Island. Checked the ferry times, downloaded a backroad map onto Isaac’s phone, along with a couple of podcasts, then sprinted back to the van to get out of Victoria as fast as we could. Lesson learnt, cities and van living do not mix well, especially in the middle of a global pandemic. Never again will I take a nature wee for granted. 

VANCOUVER ISLAND: day 5

Accidentally didn’t wake up early. Urgently starting to feel the need for a proper shower/hair wash. Campsites here are very basic, i.e. picnic table and a drop toilet. Still haven’t got round to filling out the shower bag (lake rinses and wet wipe baths can only get you so far), so will head to Victoria today. Also need to do a food shop, find a potable tap and get fuel. Even on a road trip, this admin queen manages to squeeze in a day of admin.

I drove the first stretch and whilst over taking an enormous truck, a large rock flew up and put a very substantial chip in the windscreen, right between my eyeballs. We add getting that fixed ASAP to todays admin list. 

Made it to the first campsite, picked as it had showers, but it was full. Suddenly realised that it’s a long weekend (Canada Day grrrrr) so most campsites around Victoria are likely to be full, showers or no showers. Sat in a pub nearby feeling a bit defeated. Googled places to fix the windscreen/potential shower options over a couple of pints, on their very mediocre WiFi.

We also didn’t anticipate how a global pandemic might affect our cleanliness on this trip. All of the sneaky ways to shower properly whilst on a road trip (gyms, public washrooms, showers at the beach etc.) are CLOSED or by appointment only. And obviously, appointments are fully booked until later next week. I guess we will have to suck up being grubby for a bit longer. 

Found somewhere in Langford to fix the chip before everywhere closed for the long weekend. The guy found 4 more chips we didn't know about, but fixed them for free. Big tip for you sir.

Did the food shop next, but the pint had gone straight to my bladder. NO TOILETS IN ANY SHOPS ANYWHERE NEARBY WERE OPEN. If I see one more sign saying ‘closed due to COVID-19’.. !!!!! I ran around like a headless chicken trying not to wet myself until I eventually found one in Tim Hortons. Sadly, I was forced to buy a chicken caesar wrap just so I could use it. You can’t just pick a nice bush in a city. Get me back to nature where you can dig a hole if you really have to.

It’s also a lot harder to find a sneaky camp spot in a city too. Drove around Victoria for a good while, before finding a pullout next to the road on the south coastline and asking a guy who lived there if he didn't mind us staying the night. No signs that say you can’t park overnight either, so fingers crossed no fines. 

The view was pretty sweet and America is even closer than before. So close that my phone picked up the US signal and my phone network charged me for international roaming. 

Made a one pot pasta for dinner and watched the sunset from the van. Very, very blustery outside, but the sky is full of pinks and yellows. Still feeling pretty grubby, but a serene ending to an oddly stressful day. 

VANCOUVER ISLAND: day 4

The van was on a serious angle all night. Tried swapping ends a few times, figuring out which way was best to avoid blood rushing to the head/getting squished into the cupboards.

Also needed to pee the whole night, but pretty sure I could hear coyotes howling outside, so I decided to hold it till the morning. Now we are in the morning, I have discovered how MING these particular drop toilets are. A bush wee seems more hygienic, but a hard feat with all the screaming kids running about. On top of sleep deprivation I am also feeling very hormonal today. Perhaps #VanLife isn’t so glamorous after all. 

Added an egg to the left over mash and fried lil’ fritters for brekky, did the washing up then had a quick dip in the lake. It is a pearla of a day, as the Aussies say. Definitely want to chill for another night somewhere on this lake. 

Packed up to try find another spot down the lakeside logging road. The logging truck drivers here own the roads; they do not give a flying fuck about anyone else. If you don't drive off the road and into the bush to let them past, you would be flatter than a pancake.

Found a spot at the top of the lake with a small beach. Made a sandwich for lunch then chilled. I read for a bit, Isaac floated on the lake. Then I went for a float whilst Isaac had a nap. We reorganised the van, I started to macrame the net I had planned to go above the front seats. Slowly, this day is becoming more like chilled #VanLife I had envisioned.

We cooked egg fried rice and grilled veggies for dinner, then went for an evening walk with wine along the beach. The mountains around the lake are a picture perfect valley. It’s definitely some high grade soul fuel, seeing as far as the eye can see. 

Still peckish so Isaac made a mini charcuterie board with cheese, pickles, salami and some salt & vinegar crisps. This day has really done a 180. We are now well beyond chilled #VanlLife and have entered the bougie regions.

Made the bed, watched Game of Thrones and promised ourselves we would actually get up early tomorrow. 

VANCOUVER ISLAND: day 3

The sunlight woke me up too early, but being the pro sleeper that I am, I managed to force myself back to sleep. I probably should have just started the day. Next time.

Bit drizzly still, so made breakfast inside (french toast today, oo la la). We packed up super quick to avoid the ranger and carried on driving along the coastline. Had zero signal, but roughly knew that if we turned left out of Jordan River, Sombrio Beach/Port Renfrew would be the next stop. Drove in that general direction and hoped for the best.

The road was v windy, twisty and bumpy, the weather was abysmal. It felt like we were in a huge cloud, could barely see 100m in front of us. The forest next to us was thick, all the trees were huge and covered in juicy moss. It felt super eerie, I half expected to see a real life Sasquatch after each bend. In sum, not ideal driving conditions. 

Skipped Sombrio Beach which was sad, but we could barely see our hands in front of our face. Port Renfrew was a strange lil’ town. Sort of spread out down the road, bizarre adverts for Airbnbs and gas prices nailed to the trees along the way. 

We walked down to Botanical Bay on the seafront. Low tides = millions of rock pools. I REALLY love rock pools. The longer you look at them, the busier they become. Teeny-tiny crabs and fish poke their heads out after they think you’re gone.

We wandered down the rocky shore, then headed back through the forest. Isaac wore thongs (Australian for flip flops) which is not the best footwear for slippery, jagged rocks/slippery, root-y forests. Some very cool, wobbly trees in this forest though. Made Isaac look like a tiny person.

Port Renfrew feels on the edge of being a ghost town. Only one place open to get food, I had very low expectations but the food turned out to be insane (curried mussels). Checked out the very limited, local shop, then headed towards Lake Cowichan.

Stopped at a really, really big tree on the way (San Juan Sitka Spruce). It was like the ones from Avatar. I felt small. Hard to imagine that once, it too was as small as me. Lake Cowichan was huuuge and really very lovely. Reminds me a bit of Cheakamus Lake.

Bit the bullet and paid for a campsite as it was getting late. It’s no fun trying to find somewhere to sleep for the night in the dark. 

The evening lake is lush and the moon was looking fat. So many freakin’ mosquitoes though. Why are the Canadian ones so huge?! I did the washing up from yesterday then made dinner (veggie burgers, salad and mash), Isaac made a fire (finally after what felt like hours of trying, failing and swearing). 

For some reason I didn’t picture bumping into a single soul on this trip. I imagined Vancouver Island to be semi deserted. I forgot that despite being in a pandemic, we are still in the middle of the summer holidays. I guess The Island is a popular holiday destination. There are a lot of screaming kids running about this campsite. Already getting a bit sick of other people.

VANCOUVER ISLAND: day 2

Slept in a little bit; yesterday felt like a big day. After spilling the bowl of last night’s toothpaste all over the duvet (unbelievably gross, I know, but still scared of attracting bears and it was too dark and scary to walk far away to get rid of. I’d rather keep it till the morning than run into a bear in the dark), we put the bed away and made an excellent bowl of cereal for breakfast. We are a bit on top of each other in this relatively small space, but hopefully it is just a case of taking a few days to adjust/remember what we’ve put in what cupboard. 

Checked out these Potholes and they definitely were not the ones you find on the road. They are some crazy rock formations in the river that happened during the last ice age, creating pools of water. We climbed down to them and I was getting some serious Jurassic Park vibes, half expecting a pterodactyl to come flying around the corner. It felt like it was the base of a big canyon.

We had a quick dip and it was bloody freezing. Some of these holes are so deep that the crystal clear water looks like a pool of black ink. Isaac did a backflip into the deepest looking one, then climbed down and across to the other side of the river to sit on a couch that someone had balanced on a flat slab of rock. He looked oddly cosy on it.

He then stone hopped down the river, back to the van. I thought that sounded a bit scary so I just climbed back up to the path and met him there. We definitely have very different versions of danger, but I also have faith in Isaac’s own judgement of his capabilities. He’d never do something completely stupid (I hope), just push the boundaries to the extreme edge of caution. I wish I was more like that. Being a lil’ bitch 99% of the time becomes quite tedious.

Drove into Sooke, walked down a beach spit. It was v windy and regretted my choice of skirt. But also cool because you could see the mountains from the Olympic National Park in America in the distance. The craziness of the States always feels so far away and removed, I forget how close we really are here.

Headed to Jordan River to find somewhere to camp. Found a spot next to the beach and shared a space with two girls. I did some yoga on the beach, that was nice. The views here are still of endless seas and hazy mountains.

We made tuna pasta for dinner, with tinned olives n sweetcorn. Ate out of one bowl to save washing up. Sat inside the van and took in the views. It was still and peaceful, a full soul kinda view. It started raining so we got into bed and watched Game of Thrones on the Ipad. Lush.

VANCOUVER ISLAND: day 1

22nd June

Despite having the whole of lock down to get ready for this trip (as well as semi handing my notice in at work), we seem to have left everything ’til the very last minute. 

Isaac has been v busy putting in the last lil’ van details this week, i.e. the fold out table on the door, covering up the electrical bit where the battery is. She is finally finished and I am obsessed. In love. Wow. What a good looking van. 

I have managed to squeeze way too many clothes into my cupboard. Doubt I will wear half of them, but it’s nice to have the option, y’know? The space under the bed and the new roof box are also stuffed to the brim, full of mountain biking stuff, sleeping bags/tents in case we camp somewhere, chairs, a huge box of tools. Definitely a case of chronic over packing, but also when you have the space, why not cater for every eventuality? Surely nothing has been forgotten (turns out Isaac forgot to pack his beard trimmer thing, so will be forced to fully embrace the hobo chic, nomad style. I have definitely forgotten a lot of things but I’m not sure what they are yet, only time can tell).

We got the ferry from Tsawwassen to Victoria, starting the trip at the bottom of the Island and working our way up, hopefully avoiding accidentally spending weeks in Tofino/Ucuelet. We thought COVID would force us to stay in the van the whole ferry, but you were allowed to walk about the decks. The views were honestly breathtaking, the whole way. Dramatic, but kind of what I imagine the entrance of heaven to look like. Endless hazy seas and skys, scattered with some misty mountains. Saw a humpback whale in the distance too, which was mad.

When we arrived on the Island, we drove around for ages checking out spots we’d scoped out on google maps, but all of them had aggressive ‘NO TRESPASSING’ signs. It was getting dark too, so we just picked a campsite for some ‘Potholes in Sooke’ (not 100% sure but I assume not the kind you find on the road). Annoyingly, the gates were closed by the time we got there, so we just parked up next to the entrance. Not the most successful first night ‘wild’ camping, nevertheless, we cracked open a bottle of red to celebrate it. Cooked some grilled veggies on the new flip out table for dinner, then passed out shortly after, exhausted.